Nicholas Ghesquiere, if I ever met you in real life I would have to fist bump you for all of the geometric things you're doing with Balenciaga. I know it is hallmark Ghesquiere, looking forward in time and space to the point where it becomes beyond futuristic (since fashion is all about looking forward by six months, always), most designers outdo their signature (see: Ball Mane) and it starts to become a repetition of the past, but it never, ever happens with Nicholas' work for Balenciaga. The odd fabrics combined with the industrial cutouts of different shapes was clearly looking beyond six months (sixty years I would say) even though it was an extension of the spring collection; most noticeable in the spiderweb pattern on the knit sweater and a few of the geometric dresses. Also, I loved the sweaters with geometric neon squares printed on top of one another so precisely cinched by a belt at the waist - I don't know why but it reminded me of the Stargate sequence in 2001: A Space Odyssey, mainly because the prints seemed to begin falling into this vertical abyss; the same sense of vertical oblivion seen in the film. (Note: I don't care if you don't see the link because it's awesome and Stanley Kubrick and I are dating so back off k)
The latter of the collection was basically large cutouts of what seemed to be newspapers, but with the large eccentric prints and neon-colours used I felt it was, again, futuristic (Nicholas bb did you travel back to the early 21st century from the future? I won't tell promise). And although some of the concept was maintained and it was a neat idea, I didn't really like the latter of the collection. It was too much of a stray away visually, from the geometric BAM! to the neon word collage 'yeah okay I guess' feeling I got.
But the greatest thing ever was hands down THE SHOES. LOOK AT THEM. I honestly can't even begin to express how awesome these are. I guess I'll have to retract what I said about fist-bumping you and change that into a full blown hug-kiss combination.
The colourful sequins! Oh my god I think I died when I saw these. It's like if Columbia from Rocky Horror Picture Show met Rainbow Brite and they designed an outfit together that they would wear whenever they kicked some ass. Overall though I think my love for this collection stayed within the realms of the beginning looks. The colours and patterns blended together so well that I want to break into a dance. Which I did. In figurative sequins and neon wigs.
Although there were several looks I liked from the latter (well, pretty much the last 50 looks) of the collection, I loved what Dai Fujiwara did with the first six or seven looks - how he took geometric tube-like knits and intertwined/layered them within each other. In my opinion I felt he should have integrated them into the collection near the end, instead of bringing the viewer (aka me) such immediate joy which I kind of lost by the end. The colour palette also reminded me of his Flying Saucer collection. Also, S/S 95. But the reminder was only there in colour, not in concept or aesthetic. I mean I like what Fujiwara is doing but in comparison to Issey? Not at alll.
Vivienne will always be that designer who always combines clothing with a sense of radical patriotism. There's no denying that she integrates her British roots into each collection, some more obviously than others. But the thing about this is that it always, always works. It's a British rebellion, a radical outlook on things, sometimes punk, sometimes merely not conventional. This blunt influential outlook is Westwood's signature method and in F/W she maintains it through prints, text, styling, color palette, etc. (For some reason I thought the make-up got influence from imagining Galliano as a trans? Do other people see this or is it just because I'm writing this at 3:28am?) But I love loved the styling and how well the colours coincided and everything was just great. For some reason it reminds me of an avant-garde film I saw recently entitled Jubilee (probably because it revolves around Britain in the future). It was weird but pretty good and plus, Tilda Swinton is extremely fond of it and she's on par with Zeus so like that means it's definitely good.
(all images via style.com)